Nestled at the head of the Bay of Fort-de-France on the southern shore, Les Trois-Îlets is arguably the most complete town for a first stay in Martinique. In a single day you can string together a lively marina, a boat crossing to the island capital, the birthplace of an empress, a village of artisan potters and a golf course laid out facing the sea. It is this concentration of pleasures that makes Les Trois-Îlets in Martinique a favourite base for travellers, and a playground I particularly love sharing.
After years of living on the island and guiding visitors here, this is my hands-on guide to enjoying this town beyond the picture postcard.
Les Trois-Îlets, the seaside town of the bay
With around 8,000 inhabitants, Les Trois-Îlets occupies a strategic position: directly opposite Fort-de-France, yet away from its bustle. Since Martinique is a French overseas department and region (DROM) — capital Fort-de-France, around 360,000 inhabitants, euro, French and Creole, dialling code +596, a time difference of -5h in winter and -6h in summer with Paris — you find all of mainland France’s comforts here in a tropical setting.
The town owes its name to three small islets set in the bay. Its historic heart, around the Church square and the town hall, preserves Creole cottages and the atmosphere of a peaceful village. But it is above all its coastline that draws visitors: the Pointe du Bout, the Anse Mitan and the Anse à l’Âne form a string of beaches and jetties turned towards the sunset.
How to get to Les Trois-Îlets
- From Aimé Césaire airport (Le Lamentin): about 30 to 40 minutes via the N5 (~25 km), outside rush hour.
- From Fort-de-France by road: 30 to 45 km going around the bay, i.e. 45 min to 1 h depending on traffic, which is often heavy.
- From Fort-de-France by sea: a 20-minute ferry, and zero traffic jams.
My local’s tip: a car is strongly recommended for exploring the rest of the island, but to reach the capital, forget the wheel and take the boat.
La Pointe du Bout: marina, beaches and sunsets
The Pointe du Bout is the tourist heart of Les Trois-Îlets. This developed peninsula brings together an elegant marina, waterfront restaurants, shops, dive clubs and several hotels. In the evening the jetties come alive, and the view of the lights of Fort-de-France, on the other side of the bay, is well worth the detour.
Just steps away, the Anse Mitan beach offers calm, shallow water, ideal for families, with a few beach huts and sunlounger rentals. Further west, the Anse à l’Âne unfurls golden sand prized for its relaxed vibe and Creole eateries. Facing the Caribbean Sea, these coves offer memorable sunsets, especially in the dry season.
A few pointers to get organised:
- Snorkelling and diving: several clubs set off from the marina towards sites in the bay and the neighbouring Anses-d’Arlet.
- Restaurant budget: count on 18 to 28 € for a main course at a Pointe restaurant, less in the village lolos.
- Car rental: budget around 35 to 55 € per day depending on the season; book early in high season (December to April).
The ferry to Fort-de-France: the local trick
This, to me, is the most underrated asset of Les Trois-Îlets. Rather than enduring the traffic jams that paralyse the metropolitan area at rush hour, the bay shuttle boats link Les Trois-Îlets to the centre of Fort-de-France in about twenty minutes.
Three landing stages serve the town: the Pointe du Bout, the Anse Mitan and the Anse à l’Âne. The boats dock in Fort-de-France at the foot of the Savane, a stone’s throw from the covered market and Fort Saint-Louis.
What you need to know:
- Duration: about a 20-minute crossing, faster and more pleasant than the road.
- Indicative fare: around 7 to 8 € one way, often cheaper return (about 10 to 12 €).
- Frequency: regular departures during the day; check the latest evening times before heading out to dine in town.
- Bonus: the crossing itself is a mini-cruise, perfect for photographing the bay and Fort Saint-Louis from the water.
Staying on the Trois-Îlets side and visiting Fort-de-France by boat: that is the winning combo for discovering both faces of the bay stress-free.
The Pagerie museum: in Joséphine’s footsteps
It is impossible to talk about Les Trois-Îlets without mentioning its most famous child: Marie-Josèphe Rose Tascher de la Pagerie, the future Joséphine de Beauharnais, wife of Napoleon and Empress of the French, born here in 1763.
The Pagerie museum has settled into the remains of the family’s sugar estate, on the green heights of the town. You visit the old stone kitchen turned into a museum space, which brings together period furniture, letters, portraits and personal items evoking Joséphine’s Creole youth before her Parisian destiny. Around it, you can still make out the ruins of the mill and the sugar works, embraced by tropical vegetation.
Practical info:
- Visit duration: 45 minutes to 1 hour.
- Indicative fare: around 6 to 8 € per adult, reduced rate for children; check opening times before you come.
- Atmosphere: a peaceful, shaded setting, ideal in the mid-morning.
The Pagerie museum opens a rare window onto the island’s colonial history, its sugar economy and the slave system that underpinned it. It is a visit that adds depth to a stay, far from beach idling alone.
