About a dozen kilometres off the coast of Kourou, three small islands set on the Atlantic tell one of the darkest and most fascinating chapters in French Guiana’s history. Here at Hostel Toucan, we send our travellers to the Îles du Salut almost every week, and we’ve come to know by heart the little details that make the difference between a great outing and a wasted day. It’s also the most sought-after excursion in French Guiana, and the one people most often miss out on for not having booked in time. Here’s our complete how-to, tested and re-tested in the field: how to get there, which boat to choose, what to see once you arrive and how to book with peace of mind.
Why the Îles du Salut are truly worth the trip
The Îles du Salut archipelago is made up of three islets: Île Royale (the largest, where the shuttle lands), Île Saint-Joseph (the wildest, with its former solitary-confinement prison) and Île du Diable (Devil’s Island, off-limits to landings, famous for having held Captain Alfred Dreyfus). Between 1852 and 1953, it was one of the most feared penal colonies in France. Today it is the best-preserved former penal colony in French Guiana, but the atmosphere has changed completely: ruins overrun by vegetation, coconut palms, turquoise waters and an incredibly visible wildlife.
This is an excursion to the Îles du Salut that we recommend to our travellers almost without fail, because it combines three rare things: a powerful historical heritage, trails accessible to everyone, and genuine immersion in nature, all less than an hour by boat from Kourou.
The penal colony behind the postcard
The name is older than the prison: the archipelago owes it to the missionaries who took refuge here in the 18th century to escape the fevers of the mainland. Established under the Second Empire, the penal colony went on to take in tens of thousands of convicts deported from mainland France. The islands served above all as a place of isolation and quarantine, but also as a prison for inmates deemed dangerous or political — Dreyfus spent 1895 to 1899 alone on Île du Diable, and it is this world that inspired Henri Charrière’s Papillon.
On the ground the traces are everywhere: the warders’ mess, the “head warder’s house”, the cemetery of the guards’ children and families, and on Saint-Joseph the solitary confinement cells, built on silence and isolation. Which is worth saying plainly: this is a place of remembrance as much as a protected natural area, not a theme park. Read the signs, take nothing, damage nothing. Reading up on the penal colony before you come deepens the day tenfold — our article on the Cayenne penal colony and Île du Diable covers that history in detail.
How to get there: departing from Kourou
All public departures leave from Kourou, about 60 km from Cayenne (allow 50 minutes to 1 hour of driving; a car is essential in French Guiana). From Félix-Éboué Airport (Matoury), allow 1h15. If you’re staying on the Cayenne side, the tropical-wood apartments of the Cayenne Chic residence, in the Zac Hibiscus district leave you just over an hour’s drive from the jetty. The jetty is located at Pointe des Roches, and it’s only usable when the tide is high enough: departure times therefore shift every day, sometimes 7:00 a.m., sometimes 8:30 a.m. Only the boat company knows the exact time for your date.
There’s no public shuttle leaving every hour here: only a handful of companies run the crossing. The boats are regularly full several days in advance during the dry season or on Ariane launch weekends. And outside the school holidays there isn’t necessarily a sailing every day: several operators concentrate their departures on weekends and peak season. On a quiet weekday, check that a boat is actually scheduled before setting your alarm.
Local tip: arrive at the jetty 30 minutes before departure. The car park fills up, and boarding is done in order of arrival. A coffee gulped down in a rush because you’re running late is a bad way to start a beautiful day.
Sailing catamaran or fast shuttle: our comparison
Two families of boats share the crossing. The choice depends on your profile and your priorities.
The sailing catamaran: the crossing for pleasure
This is the option we recommend to most of our travellers, especially for a first visit.
- Duration: 1h15 to 1h30 of crossing, sails out if the trade winds cooperate.
- Fare: €49 to €59 round trip per adult, around €35 to €42 for children, often with coffee and juice offered on board.
- Typical schedule: departure between 7:30 and 8:30 a.m. depending on the tide, return from the island around 4:00–5:00 p.m. You’ll have 5 to 6 hours on site.
- Comfort: bow nets to stretch out on, shade, decent stability, sometimes dolphins escorting you.
Downsides: the duration (nearly 3 hours at sea over the day) and seats that go fast, since the catamarans take 30 to 60 passengers maximum.
The fast shuttle: efficient and a bit sporty
The fast launches and rigid inflatables reach Île Royale in 40 to 50 minutes.
- Fare: €45 to €55 round trip, so practically the price of the catamaran.
- Advantage: more time on the island for the same day, and more flexibility if you’re staying overnight (some companies accept a return on day +1 or +2 at no extra cost, to be confirmed at booking).
- Drawback: it’s a bumpy ride. The mouth of the Kourou river and the open sea can be choppy, especially from December to February. Those with fragile backs, pregnant women and very young children should prefer the catamaran. If you’re prone to seasickness, take a tablet before boarding and sit in the middle of the boat, where the movement is felt least. Bring a waterproof bag too: the sea spray shows no mercy to phones.
Our verdict as regulars
- Family discovery day: catamaran, without hesitation.
- Photographers and walkers who want to maximise time ashore: fast shuttle on the first departure.
- Overnight on the island: fast shuttle on the way out, catamaran on the way back if possible; some companies sell a one-way trip for around €30.
A final option, the private boat charter (€450–600 for the day for 6 to 10 people): worthwhile for a fixed group or for a tailor-made schedule, for example a launch watched from the sea.
What to see and do once there
Île Royale: the heart of the visit
This is where you land, and it’s the only island of the three with an inn, a restaurant and toilets. A main trail of about 2 km loops around it in 1h30 to 2h of leisurely walking. On the programme:
- The penal colony church, surprisingly well preserved, with paintings made by a convict.
- The lighthouse, the former warders’ quarters and the hospital.
- The Bassin des Bagnards (Convicts’ Pool), a natural pool carved into the rock, now home to fish.
- Magnificent viewpoints over Île du Diable, which you watch from afar (landing is forbidden there for safety reasons, the currents being violent). From the north coast of Île Royale, barely 200 metres away, the cabin assigned to Dreyfus still stands, along with the remains of the old cable line that once linked the two islands — a cart hauled across the channel, today no more than a relic.
- From the heights, the view over the other two islands: the obligatory shot of the day.
Being the only place to eat, the inn fills up fast. Some operators include a Creole lunch there in their package, which is worth asking about when you book; otherwise bring a picnic, because the food offer on the island is limited and quickly oversubscribed.
Île Saint-Joseph: the most moving
Reachable on foot at low tide from certain points, or by small tender depending on the operators, Saint-Joseph holds the ruins of the solitary confinement quarters, nicknamed “the man-eater”, where punished convicts were locked away. The open-air cells, overrun by the roots of strangler figs, give off a striking atmosphere. It is, according to many of our travellers, the most powerful moment of the day. Its coconut grove and its small beach also make it the calmest of the three islands.
Please note: the tender only crosses the channel to Saint-Joseph if the sea allows it, the landing depending on the day’s tidal coefficient. A guide who “forgets” to mention Saint-Joseph is usually one whose boat couldn’t make the stop. If the solitary-confinement quarters and their reclaimed nature are your priority, explicitly ask the company whether the Saint-Joseph rotation is planned on the day of your outing.
The wildlife: keep your eyes open
The Îles du Salut are a little animal paradise. You’ll easily come across:
- agoutis and pacas scurrying through the undergrowth,
- squirrel monkeys (saïmiris) and capuchins, often curious,
- macaws, parrots and many seabirds,
- iguanas stretched out on the ruins and crabs along the shore,
- sea turtles sometimes visible from the boat or the coves,
- and, in the water, plenty of multicoloured fish.
A quick reminder: never feed the animals. An agouti accustomed to being hand-fed ends up rummaging through bags and turns aggressive. Same goes for your belongings: the squirrel monkeys are accomplished thieves, so pack the picnic away rather than leaving it open on a low wall.
Swimming: be careful
The water is tempting, but be careful. Swimming in the open sea is dangerous because of the currents and the occasional presence of sharks. You should swim only in the Bassin des Bagnards on Île Royale, the only safe spot. Ask the inn staff on site and always follow the signage; when in doubt, refrain. It’s enough to cool off after the walk.
When to go: tides, weather and season
A crossing to the Îles du Salut hinges as much on the calendar as on the choice of boat.
- Dry season (July to late November): calmest sea, clear skies, clearer water around Anse Legoff. It’s the best window, and therefore the most in demand: dry trails and blue skies guaranteed.
- Main rainy season (April–June): crossings maintained but wetter; the showers pass quickly, and the island stays magnificent under the mist.
- December–February: heavier swell, this is when the fast shuttle bounces around the most.
- Tides: at low tide, the Kourou jetty dries out, hence departures brought forward or delayed. Companies publish their schedules by the month; always reconfirm the day before by phone (dialling code +594) or WhatsApp.
In the rainy season, crossings can sometimes be cancelled due to swell, and the paths become muddy. If your stay falls in the wet season, keep a day of leeway in your itinerary in case the outing is postponed.
