The Route de la Traversée (D23) cuts across Basse-Terre from east to west and runs through the heart of the tropical rainforest. In my opinion, after dozens of outings on these trails, it’s the best one-day sampler of hiking in Guadeloupe National Park you’ll find. Between the Cascade aux Écrevisses and the Maison de la Forêt, you can string together short loops and family-friendly trails without having to aim for the summit of La Soufrière. Here’s my pick of 5 itineraries, with an honest take on the state of the waymarking that I re-checked during the wet season, when mud and dead leaves blur the ONF markings.
Why the Route de la Traversée is great for beginners
The D23 links Petit-Bourg (on the Grande-Terre side) to Pointe-Noire and Bouillante (the leeward coast). It’s easy to reach from Pointe-à-Pitre in 35 to 45 minutes by road. The altitude stays moderate (200 to 600 m), the canopy keeps things cool, and most trailheads are signposted from the road, with free parking.
A few pointers before you set off:
- Best time to go: the dry season, from December to April, offers drier trails and crossable rivers. In the wet season (June to November), expect mud and flash floods.
- Price: access to the National Park trails is free. No entry ticket required.
- Gear: shoes with good grip, at least 1.5 L of water, insect repellent, a light rain jacket. Rain comes fast and hard under the canopy.
- Timing: set off early (before 9 a.m.). The light fades quickly in the forest and it gets dark by 6 p.m. in the Caribbean.
1. Cascade aux Écrevisses: the unmissable warm-up
It’s the busiest trail in all of Basse-Terre, and for good reason: just 5 minutes of walking gets you to a 10-metre waterfall plunging into a swimmable pool. Perfect for families or for testing the waters before something tougher.
- Difficulty: very easy
- Duration: 20 min round trip
- Distance: 400 m
- Waymarking: excellent, trail laid out with wooden boardwalk
- My tip: arrive before 8:30 a.m. to have it to yourself. After 10 a.m. the parking lot overflows. In the wet season the boardwalk gets slippery and the pool turns murky: don’t swim after heavy rain, the current rises fast.
2. Saut de la Lézarde: the river trail
Starting from Petit-Bourg, this trail descends to a 10-metre waterfall and its emerald pool. The path runs alongside and crosses the river several times over footbridges and stepping stones.
- Difficulty: easy to moderate
- Duration: 1 hr 15 round trip
- Distance: 2.5 km
- Elevation gain: 120 m
- Waymarking: decent, but ONF markings faded in places toward the end
- My tip: this is THE trail to avoid in wet weather. The river crossings become dangerous as soon as the flow rises. In the wet season, I only do it in the morning after two days without a heavy downpour. The final descent to the pool is steep and slippery: use the roots for support.
3. Les Deux Mamelles: the panoramic loop
The Deux Mamelles pass, the highest point on the Route de la Traversée, hosts several star-shaped trails around the Maison de la Forêt and the Parc des Mamelles. The climb up the Mamelle de Pigeon (768 m) offers, on a clear day, a view over the leeward coast and the Pigeon islets of the Cousteau Reserve.
- Difficulty: moderate to strenuous
- Duration: 2 hrs round trip for the Mamelle de Pigeon
- Distance: 3 km
- Elevation gain: 300 m
- Waymarking: good on the lower section, rougher toward the summit
- My tip: the final stretch is steep, with fixed ropes for safety. In wet weather, these ropes are essential and the red earth turns slick as soap. If the summit is in the clouds (common in the afternoon), there’s no point pushing on: no view. Aim for the 8 a.m.–10 a.m. window.
4. Maison de la Forêt: the educational loop
Right next to the road, the Maison de la Forêt offers two short waymarked loops in the heart of the dense forest, along the Bras-David river. It’s the perfect option when the weather is uncertain: short, shaded, and informative about the tropical flora (tree ferns, gum trees, mahoganies).
- Difficulty: easy
- Duration: 30 to 50 min depending on the loop
- Distance: 1 to 1.7 km
- Waymarking: very good, regular interpretive panels
- My tip: the Bras-David loop crosses a suspension footbridge that kids love. In the wet season, the ground stays walkable because the loop is partly laid out, which makes it my plan B when the Lézarde river overflows.
5. Trace des Contrebandiers: for going further
This old track once linked the two coasts of Basse-Terre. The section accessible from the Route de la Traversée plunges into a dense, humid forest, wilder and far less frequented. It’s my recommendation for those who want to leave the tourist trails behind.
- Difficulty: strenuous
- Duration: 3 hrs 30 to 4 hrs depending on the section
- Distance: 8 km
- Elevation gain: 400 m
- Waymarking: irregular; several poorly marked junctions
- My tip: not to be attempted alone without an offline map (IGN or a GPS track loaded in advance; the +590 mobile network disappears under the canopy). In the wet season, the ground is constantly waterlogged and leeches show up. Save this trail for the dry season and go in a group of at least two.
Summary table of the 5 trails
| Trail | Difficulty | Duration | Wet-season waymarking |
|---|---|---|---|
| Cascade aux Écrevisses | Very easy | 20 min | Excellent |
| Saut de la Lézarde | Easy/moderate | 1 hr 15 | Decent, faded at end |
| Deux Mamelles | Moderate/strenuous | 2 hrs | Good then rough |
| Maison de la Forêt | Easy | 30-50 min | Very good |
| Trace des Contrebandiers | Strenuous | 3 hrs 30 | Irregular |
Planning your hiking day from the coast
The logic that works best: stay on the Basse-Terre or Grande-Terre side close to the D23, hike in the morning, then switch over in the afternoon toward Malendure and the Cousteau Reserve for snorkeling, or toward the beach at Grande Anse in Deshaies. That way you combine forest and lagoon in a single day.
To scout the other must-sees before or after your trails, check out our complete guide to Guadeloupe, which covers both wings of the butterfly, the Saintes, Marie-Galante and the best beaches.
Staying in the right spot
A hiking trip hinges a lot on the location of your accommodation: the closer you are to the Route de la Traversée, the earlier you set off and the more you enjoy the trails before the crowds. At Hostel Toucan, our Guadeloupe rentals are selected for their proximity to natural sites.
By booking direct, you get:
- Direct booking with no platform fees: a better price than on the OTAs.
- Free cancellation up to 7 days before arrival, handy if the tropical weather looks set to be temperamental.
- WhatsApp assistance 7 days a week: we’ll fill you in on trail conditions, ONF closures and the best windows depending on the rain.
Own a property on the archipelago and want to entrust it to us? Discover our concierge service for owners.
Safety tips for the tropical forest
- Check the local weather the same morning: a calm river can become a torrent in an hour.
- Never cross a river in spate, not even a small ford.
- Tell someone your itinerary, especially on the Trace des Contrebandiers.
- Respect the National Park: pick nothing, stay on the trails, take your trash with you.
The Route de la Traversée remains the ideal playground for discovering hiking in Guadeloupe National Park without alpine expertise. Choose your loop based on the day’s weather, set off early, and always keep a covered plan B under the canopy.
FAQ
Do you need a guide to hike the Route de la Traversée?
No for the waymarked trails like the Cascade aux Écrevisses, the Saut de la Lézarde, the Deux Mamelles or the Maison de la Forêt: they can be done independently. However, the Trace des Contrebandiers, with its irregular waymarking and no mobile network, is best done with an offline GPS track, in a group of at least two, or accompanied by a local guide.
What’s the best time of year for these hikes?
The dry season, from December to April, offers drier trails, crossable rivers and better-visible waymarking. In the wet season (June to November), favour the laid-out loops like the Maison de la Forêt and avoid the river trails like the Saut de la Lézarde after heavy rain.
Is access to Guadeloupe National Park free?
Yes, access to the National Park trails and waterfalls is entirely free, including the parking lots along the Route de la Traversée. Just bring your gear, water and insect repellent. Only certain guided tours or supervised activities are paid.
Are these trails suitable for children?
Yes for the Cascade aux Écrevisses (20 min) and the Maison de la Forêt loops with their suspension footbridge: short, shaded and largely laid out. The Saut de la Lézarde is still possible with children who are comfortable walking, but avoid the Deux Mamelles and the Trace des Contrebandiers, which are more demanding.
